Sunday, July 16, 2006
Matheran Trek
Last week I went with my usual gang of trekkers to Matheran. We intended to go via the Garbett Plateau route from Bhivpuri. For those who don't know Matheran is the only hill station in India that does not allow motor traffic. It has definitely helped preserve the pristine beauty of this place. Monsoons bring out the best in Matheran and we definitely had one awesome trek.
The Pune junta took the 6:05 Sinhagad Express towards Karjat and then a local train towards Bombay to get down at Bhivpuri station, which is the next station after Karjat. The Mumbai junta had an easier option of taking one local train from CST to Karjat. All of us assembled at Bhivpuri. One of the trek site descriptions mentioned that we have to start walking from the Karjat end of the platform. Well, we didn't and that was the source of so much confusion on this trek, because we never reached Garbett Plateau. We reached Matheran directly and came out somewhere near Garbett Point (from where you get a good view of the plateau itself). Well, that surely is not cutting a long story short, because even though we took another route and found our way serendipitously, we had an amazing trek nonetheless.
So as I said we started off on the other end of the platform, after we filled up on some hot tea at the station. We started walking on a tar road that goes towards Neral (the next station). Now a motor road from Neral goes right up to Dasturi Naka, after which you have to walk 20 mins till you reach the Matheran Market. We wanted to go offroad, so after asking some local villagers, we started towards a village called Bekra. As soon as we climbed a small ridge we saw a gentle stream that we had to cut across. In went everybody and it was not long before a water-fight erupted, leaving everyone drenched.
After cutting across paddy fields for around 20 mins we reached Bekra. We got several conflicting answers about the route to Garbett. We could not make out whether the villagers were referring to Garbett Point which is at Matheran or Garbett Plateau which is at a lower altitude. So, going roughly in the direction we thought was OK we followed a trail to the left , which quickly became steep enough. We reached a small grassy ridge which widened across ahead. To our left was a magnificent waterfall. Then followed the mandatory photo sessions with people outdoing each other in their modelling poses.
Travelling further on the scenery became even more breathtaking and the colours more vivid. Green dominated the landscape for as far we could see. It was as if a carpet had been laid out to welcome us visitors. The route gradually ascended higher up the hill and the views became even more captivating. It was harder to resist turning around and staring at the panorama behind us.
We had been climbing for more than 2 hours. The pace dipped a lot on this trek, because there was a bigger group than usual, with around 23 trekkers. We halted and out came lunch, which provided a much needed break, and fuel for the body. Exotic combinations like boiled eggs and pickle were gulped down without complaints. Table manners were done away with and hungry hands clamoured for more. With renewed vigour we again started upwards. The route became steeper and more rocky as we ascended. Part of the group who had gone ahead at this point went astray and turned right towards a trail which went towards directly towards Dasturi Naka. They had a lead of around 20 mins and finally when the trekkers at the rear correctly took the correct trail to the left, the leaders were spotted far below in the distance. With loud calls they were called back. From that fork the Matheran plateau is not more than half an hour away. It was not much time before everyone regrouped at the top.
It was then that we realised our blunder. We were right on the dirt trails of Matheran and we saw other human traffic going past us. After asking someone we realised that Garbett Point was not more than 10 mins away to the left. We scrambled over a portion of the trail which had seen a recent landslide and made our way to the Point. What followed was the best part of the trek. We could see the Point as we approached. A tongue of land jutting out narrowly from the plateau. Whipped by winds so strong that you actually felt like someone was pushing you over. Rain which came in horizontally and stung your skin. And waterfalls in the distance that played a game of hide and seek, with the clouds that billowed and buffetted across for one moment and cleared away in the next.
We had a good look at the Garbett Plateau - the route that we were supposed to come up from and had a hearty laugh. It did not matter for we had enough fun anyway. After enough exposure to the elements we turned back and started off on the trail towards the Market. From Garbett Point the Market is around 45 mins away. The trail took us through the thick greenery which Matheran is famous for.
Some trivia which might be of interest to you. Matheran was a hill station developed by the British. One of the British Collectors was walking near the base of this hill and he asked a villager what was the place above. The villager said "mathe raan aahe" meaning literally "there is a forest at the head of the hill". This was how it got its name.
We finally reached the Market and had grub. Omelets and pav and steaming hot chai were downed with gusto. The stall owner had a hard time refilling our plates that day. Few words were exchanged as we got busy with food. We didn't have time that day to roam around all the points in Matheran so we started walking back on the narrow gauge tracks towards Dasturi Naka. Matheran is one of the few hill stations that had a toy train with a steam engine. But after the 26 July 2005 torrential rains and ensuing landslides, the train has stopped running as portions of the track are suspended in the air, even today.
The taxi trip from Dasturi Naka to Neral cost Rs. 50 and the drivers skillfully negotiated the steep hairpin bends and brought us back to Neral Station. From here it was departure for the Pune and Mumbai junta as we both headed in opposite directions. Back to the concrete jungle!
Reference:
Timetable: Karjat local, Kasara local
(For travelling from Mumbai to Neral/Bhivpuri)
Timetable: Pune-Mumbai or Mumbai Pune
(Click on Trains between Imp. Stations)
The Pune junta took the 6:05 Sinhagad Express towards Karjat and then a local train towards Bombay to get down at Bhivpuri station, which is the next station after Karjat. The Mumbai junta had an easier option of taking one local train from CST to Karjat. All of us assembled at Bhivpuri. One of the trek site descriptions mentioned that we have to start walking from the Karjat end of the platform. Well, we didn't and that was the source of so much confusion on this trek, because we never reached Garbett Plateau. We reached Matheran directly and came out somewhere near Garbett Point (from where you get a good view of the plateau itself). Well, that surely is not cutting a long story short, because even though we took another route and found our way serendipitously, we had an amazing trek nonetheless.
So as I said we started off on the other end of the platform, after we filled up on some hot tea at the station. We started walking on a tar road that goes towards Neral (the next station). Now a motor road from Neral goes right up to Dasturi Naka, after which you have to walk 20 mins till you reach the Matheran Market. We wanted to go offroad, so after asking some local villagers, we started towards a village called Bekra. As soon as we climbed a small ridge we saw a gentle stream that we had to cut across. In went everybody and it was not long before a water-fight erupted, leaving everyone drenched.
After cutting across paddy fields for around 20 mins we reached Bekra. We got several conflicting answers about the route to Garbett. We could not make out whether the villagers were referring to Garbett Point which is at Matheran or Garbett Plateau which is at a lower altitude. So, going roughly in the direction we thought was OK we followed a trail to the left , which quickly became steep enough. We reached a small grassy ridge which widened across ahead. To our left was a magnificent waterfall. Then followed the mandatory photo sessions with people outdoing each other in their modelling poses.
Travelling further on the scenery became even more breathtaking and the colours more vivid. Green dominated the landscape for as far we could see. It was as if a carpet had been laid out to welcome us visitors. The route gradually ascended higher up the hill and the views became even more captivating. It was harder to resist turning around and staring at the panorama behind us.
We had been climbing for more than 2 hours. The pace dipped a lot on this trek, because there was a bigger group than usual, with around 23 trekkers. We halted and out came lunch, which provided a much needed break, and fuel for the body. Exotic combinations like boiled eggs and pickle were gulped down without complaints. Table manners were done away with and hungry hands clamoured for more. With renewed vigour we again started upwards. The route became steeper and more rocky as we ascended. Part of the group who had gone ahead at this point went astray and turned right towards a trail which went towards directly towards Dasturi Naka. They had a lead of around 20 mins and finally when the trekkers at the rear correctly took the correct trail to the left, the leaders were spotted far below in the distance. With loud calls they were called back. From that fork the Matheran plateau is not more than half an hour away. It was not much time before everyone regrouped at the top.
It was then that we realised our blunder. We were right on the dirt trails of Matheran and we saw other human traffic going past us. After asking someone we realised that Garbett Point was not more than 10 mins away to the left. We scrambled over a portion of the trail which had seen a recent landslide and made our way to the Point. What followed was the best part of the trek. We could see the Point as we approached. A tongue of land jutting out narrowly from the plateau. Whipped by winds so strong that you actually felt like someone was pushing you over. Rain which came in horizontally and stung your skin. And waterfalls in the distance that played a game of hide and seek, with the clouds that billowed and buffetted across for one moment and cleared away in the next.
We had a good look at the Garbett Plateau - the route that we were supposed to come up from and had a hearty laugh. It did not matter for we had enough fun anyway. After enough exposure to the elements we turned back and started off on the trail towards the Market. From Garbett Point the Market is around 45 mins away. The trail took us through the thick greenery which Matheran is famous for.
Some trivia which might be of interest to you. Matheran was a hill station developed by the British. One of the British Collectors was walking near the base of this hill and he asked a villager what was the place above. The villager said "mathe raan aahe" meaning literally "there is a forest at the head of the hill". This was how it got its name.
We finally reached the Market and had grub. Omelets and pav and steaming hot chai were downed with gusto. The stall owner had a hard time refilling our plates that day. Few words were exchanged as we got busy with food. We didn't have time that day to roam around all the points in Matheran so we started walking back on the narrow gauge tracks towards Dasturi Naka. Matheran is one of the few hill stations that had a toy train with a steam engine. But after the 26 July 2005 torrential rains and ensuing landslides, the train has stopped running as portions of the track are suspended in the air, even today.
The taxi trip from Dasturi Naka to Neral cost Rs. 50 and the drivers skillfully negotiated the steep hairpin bends and brought us back to Neral Station. From here it was departure for the Pune and Mumbai junta as we both headed in opposite directions. Back to the concrete jungle!
Reference:
Timetable: Karjat local, Kasara local
(For travelling from Mumbai to Neral/Bhivpuri)
Timetable: Pune-Mumbai or Mumbai Pune
(Click on Trains between Imp. Stations)
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